In 1995 or 1996, I met Kelly Slater on the beach at Pipeline after he won the First Da Hui Pipeline Backdoor Shootout. The surf was big and almost perfect and Kelly ripped the place apart. The surfing action at Pipeline takes place very close to shore and the powerful waves break on a reef in very shallow water. The waves break so close to shore that you can feel the concussion of the exploding waves in your chest. You could sense the amazing energy-danger-testosterone vibe in the air even away from the beach. We went to the northshore Foodland and met up with some guys from Kauai in the parking lot who had just gone out at 20 foot Waimea Bay. One of the guys owned Tamba Surf Shop in Kapaa and was full of left over adrenalin. I was almost 50 then and still able to plug into the amazing energy that exists in, around, and near big surf.
©janepolli
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